How far would you go in the pursuit of impossibly radiant skin? For skin care fanatics of a certain order, the journey increasingly involves direction from an LED face mask, a once-niche device associated with woo-woo aesthetician offices and the type of eerily poreless influencers native to Calabasas. But in recent years, a handful of options designed for at-home use have made the technology more accessible than ever, none generating more excitement than Dr. Dennis Gross’ DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro. 

At first glance, the SpectraLite looks like a prop yanked off the set of a horror movie (in Bodies, Bodies, Bodies, Lee Pace wears a light therapy mask that’s at first mistaken for some sort of slacker flick homage), but its science-backed bona fides and high-profile fans have made it a surprise cult favorite—despite its $500 price. 

“The two most commonly used LED lights are red and blue because they produce results you can see,” explains New-York based dermatologist Dr. Carmen Castilla. Blue light can combat acne-causing bacteria; red light, which is better equipped to reach the skin, can promote increased collagen production. Most LED devices designed for at-home use incorporate one or the other, but the SpectraLite uses both—part of the reason aestheticians like Sofie Pavitt swear by it. Pavitt has embraced LED therapy for years, in her personal skin care routine and at her NYC-based studio. Unlike other laser treatments, she says, which can be invasive and irritate sensitive skin, LED is safer and more efficient. 

Dr. Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro

The SpectraLite also makes the technology implausibly easy to use: put it on after washing your face, let the light bathe your mug for a few minutes, then finish up with the rest of your routine. It sounds gimmick-y, but the science involved is very real. Exposing your skin to blue or red light can help you skip past months of stubborn acne scarring and hyperpigmentation, says Dr. Castilla, leaving your complexion looking brighter and tighter. It can also help your topicals perform better, working hand-in-hand with the retinol you’ve been slathering on in the evenings. (Applying a broad spectrum SPF each day is a non-negotiable, Pavitt says, and she strongly advises those who have a history of skin cancer to steer clear of LED treatments altogether.)

Prior to at-home masks, LED treatments were largely used in facials administered by specialists; the SpectraLite’s primary selling point is that it targets the skin care concerns that would drive you to the aesthetician’s chair from the comfort of your couch. The one caveat? You’ll have to wait a little longer to see the results. “It is definitely more convenient to do an LED panel at home rather than coming into the office,” Dr. Castilla says, but you have to be consistent, using it 3-4 times per week for several months to see any benefits. 

That’s one of the reasons Evan Shinn, one-half of the Dewy Dudes, stills feels a little skeptical. Shinn’s enjoyed LED treatments in the past as part of targeted facials, but he’s not sure buying a mask is worth the investment, especially if it’s destined to collect dust on his bathroom bureau. “Having a skin care routine seems like a lot already, especially when you’re on the go,” he admits. Adding an extra device you need to plug in and put on for a few minutes might seem “fun and novel in the beginning”, but could quickly take on the routinized feel of a chore. If you’re not disciplined enough to use it, why bother in the first place? 

For beauty obsessives with $500 to spend and a steely resolve to overhaul their skin care routine, the question isn’t so much a matter of why but when. The ease of an LED mask—one you can power up on your own timeframe, and use for touch-ups between facials—makes the benefits hard to ignore. In the pursuit of perfect skin, cosplaying as a knockoff Jason is a small price to pay.